To get the filename just right, I use Advanced Renamer, a free program for renaming multiple files or folders at once. Advanced Renamer can read information from the image file (like the date the picture was taken).

Importing the images

Connect the device or memory card to your computer. In the AutoPlay dialog box that appears, click Import pictures and videos using Windows.

Windows 7 AutoPlay dialog box

The default settings will create a single folder with today’s date, which is not what we want. To change the settings that are used when importing pictures and videos, click Import settings in the Import Pictures and Videos dialog box.

Windows 7 Import Settings dialog box

Under the Folder name menu, choose Date Taken + Tag and click OK. The import process will restart and you’ll be prompted to enter a tag. The tag isn’t important, so just click Import.

Configuring Advanced Renamer

It takes two methods to get the names the way I want them. The first method changes the filename to use the year, month, and day information, and increment a trailing number. The second method changes the new filename to lowercase. If you prefer your file extensions to be in uppercase, you can skip the second method.

Advanced Renamer - Renaming method list

Under Add batch method, click New Name, and either select the desired date conventions from the options, adding any separator characters you wish, or copy the code below to use YYYY.MM.DD_001.EXT.

<IMG Year>.<IMG Month>.<IMG Day>_<Inc NrDir:001>.<Ext>

Under Add batch method, click New Case and then choose Set lower case. In the Apply to menu, choose Name and extension.

Click the Add button and browse to the parent folder. The files should appear in the list, and the new filename will be displayed. Check for any errors or problems with the filename, then click Start Batch.

Move the files into a single directory

Now that the pictures are all correctly named, I no longer need them to be in date-based folders. It’s more convenient to have them in a single folder from which I can organize them.

To do this, I use a batch file that moves any files in a sub-folder into the parent folder.

Set sOriginFolder="PATH\TO\PARENT\DIRECTORY"

For /f "Tokens=*" %%a in ('Dir %sOriginFolder% /a-d /s /b') do (
	move "%%a" %sOriginFolder%
)

Replace PATH\TO\PARENT\DIRECTORY with the full path to the parent folder, then run the batch file.

That’s it. Now I have a single folder of images that are uniquely named according to date taken.

But, I was able to find lots of useful links, which I’ve posted here for future reference.

Default AirPort Base Station passwords are “public.”

Resetting an AirPort Base Station or Time Capsule FAQ (with pictures of the different models)
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3728

AirPort Utility 5.5.1 for Windows
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL954

AirPort Utility 5.4.2 for Windows
http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/apple/application_updates/airportutility542forwindows.html

Time Capsule and AirPort Extreme Base Station Firmware Update 7.5.1
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL965

AirPort Extreme Firmware Update 5.7 for Windows
http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/apple/firmware_hardware/airportextremefirmwareupdate57forwindows.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL411

All about Time Capsule, AirPort Extreme, and AirPort Express base station firmware updates
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1218

To download and install any available firmwares on your AWD, simply open AirPort Utility. An alert indicates that an update is available (if one is). Click the Update button. If you are updating more than one base station, click Show Details to select the base stations you want to update.

AirPort + Time Capsule (General support page)
http://www.apple.com/support/airport/

Using the AirPort Admin Utility to create a WDS network with multiple base stations
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2044

AirPort Extreme Base Station Setup Guide
http://manuals.info.apple.com/en/airportextremebasestationsetupguide.pdf

AirPort: Slow 802.11n connection speed when connected using older WEP or WPA security mechanisms
(Use WPA2 Personal authentication)
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3361

Connecting it to a Windows computer caused a “USB Device Not Recognized” balloon to pop up. A look in Device Manager (devmgmt.msc) showed an “Unknown Device” in the Universal Serial Bus controllers.

While it was connected to the computer, I was able to invoke the “USB Device Not Recognized” balloon by holding the Sleep and Home buttons down for a few seconds, which didn’t give me much cause for hope, other than those buttons seemed to be working. This is as much life as the device exhibited.

Holding down the Sleep/Wake and/or Home buttons and then connecting the USB cable did nothing new.

I read somewhere that the “Apple Mobile Device Service” needs to be running for the connection to be established, so I opened the Services snap-in (services.msc) and started the “Apple Mobile Device Service”. I reconnected the device, but no joy.

More reading turned up that the iPod should show up in Device Manager as “Apple Mobile Device USB Driver” in the Universal Serial Bus controllers, so I also manually updated the Unknown Device to use the Apple Mobile Device USB driver, following the instructions at iPhone or iPod is not recognized properly by computer when USB drivers are not installed properly or are out of date.

This was only partially successful, as the Unknown Device was now labeled Apple Mobile Device USB Driver, but with an exclamation point next to it, indicating that the device was not functioning. The driver wasn’t able to fully install because “the device failed to start”. As a side note, there are a few other interesting possible drivers that can be selected, and I tried them all, but none of them installed successfully.

Things were looking pretty bleak. But I had fixed a USB drive that was unusable, unformattable, and reporting 0 bytes capacity a few months ago by running a reformat/reimage application, so I felt I had one last resort.

Turning the corner

I finally found a thread describing a situation like mine that didn’t (a) peter out unresolved, (b) conclude with a fix using steps I’d already tried, or (c) end in a product return/visit to the Apple Store. One poster claimed that the jailbreak software redsn0w was able to restore the iPod even when Windows wouldn’t recognize it. I was already headed down the jailbreak route, and was considering Pwnage.

While I was downloading the 3.1.2 firmware, I started scanning the instructions at http://www.iphonedownloadblog.com/2009/06/20/tutorial-iphone-30-unlock-redsn0w/

One of the steps was to connect the iPod while it was turned off (which I couldn’t be sure of). Then hold down the Sleep/Wake button for 2 seconds. Without releasing the Sleep/Wake button, also hold down the Home button for 10 seconds. Then, without releasing the Home button, release the Sleep/Wake button but keep holding the Home button for 30 seconds.

Without much hope, I just jumped ahead and followed those instructions. For some reason, by the time I had counted to 10, Windows had detected a USB device, but this time it successfully installed the Apple Mobile Device USB Driver. I held down the Home button for about 40 seconds and then released it, but nothing else happened.

Another look in Device Manager (devmgmt.msc) showed an “Apple Mobile Device USB Driver” in the Universal Serial Bus controllers, but this time without an exclamation point. This was progress.

As the firmware was still downloading, I walked away for about 30 minutes, and when I came back, an iTunes window had popped up (though I can’t remember if iTunes was already running at the time):

iTunes
iTunes has detected an iPod in recovery mode. You must restore this iPod before it can be used with iTunes.
[OK]

Bingo! iTunes was now displaying ‘iPod’ under Devices on the left side. In the Summary tab, it showed an iPod touch with Capacity: n/a, Software Version: n/a, and Serial Number: n/a. Under Version, it read:

Your iPod software is up to date. iTunes will automatically check for an update again on 2/19/2010.
If you are experiencing problems with your iPod, you can restore its original settings by clicking Restore.

So I did.

I agreed to all of the legalese and the software update began. About 20 minutes later, the iPod’s screen lit up and an iPod window opened on the computer, which read “Preparing iPod for restore…”. The iPod then displayed the Apple logo. A few more device driver balloons appeared.

A few minutes later, and I was left with a fully functional and factory-default iPod touch 2G.

Epilogue

With new-found confidence in my ability to resurrect an apparently hopelessly broken iPod, I checked eBay for other likely candidates, but found that most of the broken iPods for sale have had their liquid submersion indicators tripped. Even these have a number of bids, and the ones that seem to be in better condition aren’t that much cheaper than working ones.

Step 1: Get the RTM Windows 7 release

Windows 7 RTM is build version 6.1.7600.16385. This version was released to Microsoft TechNet and MSDN subscribers in the summer of 2009 and quickly made its way onto BitTorrent.

64-bit (x64) Windows 7 Ultimate RTM English Retail DVD ISO Image

http://torrents.thepiratebay.org/5021075/7600.16385.090713-1255_x64fre_client_en-us_Retail_Ultimate-GRMCU.5021075.TPB.torrent

File Name: 7600.16385.090713-1255_x64fre_client_en-us_Retail_Ultimate-GRMCULXFRER_EN_DVD.iso
Size: 3224686592 bytes
CRC: 1F1257CA
MD5: F43D22E4FB07BF617D573ACD8785C028
SHA-1: 326327CC2FF9F05379F5058C41BE6BC5E004BAA7

32-bit (x86) Windows 7 Ultimate RTM English Retail DVD ISO Image

http://torrents.thepiratebay.org/5021073/7600.16385.090713-1255_x86fre_client_en-us_Retail_Ultimate-GRMCU.5021073.TPB.torrent

File Name: 7600.16385.090713-1255_x86fre_client_en-us_Retail_Ultimate-GRMCULFRER_EN_DVD.iso
Size: 2501894144 bytes
CRC: C1C20F76
MD5: D0B8B407E8A3D4B75EE9C10147266B89
SHA-1: 5395DC4B38F7BDB1E005FF414DEEDFDB16DBF610

Below are the official SHA1 hashes of these releases copied and pasted from technet.microsoft.com. I’ve checked them against the actual files from the torrents and they match.

64-bit Windows 7 Ultimate
File Name: en_windows_7_ultimate_x64_dvd_x15-65922.iso
Date Published (UTC): 8/6/2009 9:59:56 AM Last Updated (UTC): 8/24/2009 8:59:33 AM
SHA1: 326327CC2FF9F05379F5058C41BE6BC5E004BAA7 ISO/CRC: 1F1257CA

32-bit Windows 7 Ultimate
File Name: en_windows_7_ultimate_x86_dvd_x15-65921.iso
Date Published (UTC): 8/6/2009 9:59:56 AM Last Updated (UTC): 8/24/2009 8:59:33 AM
SHA1: 5395DC4B38F7BDB1E005FF414DEEDFDB16DBF610 ISO/CRC: C1C20F76

More links to torrents of build version 6.1.7600.16385 can be found at My Digital Life.

As a general rule, don’t download just any torrent that you come across, and do use a hash calculator (like HashCalc) to verify that the hash of the file you’ve downloaded matches that posted by a trusted source. Download the file, calculate the hash, copy it, find a trustworthy web site that displays the hash, and then do a Find on that page for the hash you’ve copied. If the hash you calculated matches the trusted one, you can trust the file is legit.

Step 2: Prepare the USB drive

You’ll need a 4 GB flash drive to hold the installation files. Microsoft offers a neat little program that will extract the ISO to a USB drive and make it bootable. It can also burn the ISO to a DVD. Download the Windows 7 USB/DVD Download Tool.

If you’re currently using a 32-bit version of Windows and want to create a bootable USB drive containing the 64-bit (x64) version of Windows 7, you’ll need to obtain the bootsect.exe file from the 32-bit (x86) version of Windows 7.

If you want to get this file yourself, first download the 32-bit ISO. You can use any number of applications to open the ISO, but I recommend 7-Zip because it’s a great free alternative to WinZip. Open the ISO and then copy the /boot/bootsect.exe file into the same folder as the Windows7-USB-DVD-Download-Tool.exe (e.g. %USERNAME%\AppData\Local\Apps\Windows 7 USB DVD Download Tool).

If that’s too much work, you can Google 32-Bit Windows 7 Bootsect.exe and take your chances.

Run the tool (%USERNAME%\AppData\Local\Apps\Windows 7 USB DVD Download Tool\Windows7-USB-DVD-Download-Tool.exe) and follow the prompts. After Windows 7 has been loaded on the USB drive, you will be able to boot from it and install Windows 7 Ultimate. (You may have to change the boot order in the BIOS to boot from USB Storage Device.)

Step 3: Configure the installer

What if you want to install something other than Ultimate?

Both the 32-bit and 64-bit ISOs contain all the different versions of Windows. The version you actually install is determined by a tiny text file named ei.cfg in the /sources/ directory of the install media. If you want to install a different version of Windows, you just need to browse the USB drive and open the /sources/ directory. Open the ei.cfg file in Notepad and change the EditionID to whatever version you wish to install. The contents of the file will look like this:

[EditionID]
Ultimate
[Channel]
Retail
[VL]
0

The options for the EditionID are:

Starter
HomeBasic
HomePremium
Professional
Ultimate

In the alternative, if you delete ei.cfg, you’ll be asked to choose which version of Windows to install during the installation process, which is probably much more useful.

For more information and links to some software that will modify the ISO for you, see How to Select Any Edition or Version (SKU) of Windows 7 to Install From Single Edition DVD Disc Media or ISO.

I would strongly recommend installing the version that you intend to purchase, as you cannot enter a Home Premium product activation key on a system running Ultimate. You’d have to do a clean install of the version that matches the key you bought.

Step 4: Extend your pre-activation trial for 120 days

Microsoft allows anyone to install and use any version of Windows 7 for 30 days without having to enter a product activation key. This 30-day trial period can be extended three times for a total of 120 days before the installation must be activated to continue functioning. This extension is done using a Microsoft utility called the Software License Manager (slmgr) that ships with Windows.

If you haven’t entered a product activation key, you can click Start, then right-click Computer and choose Properties to see how many days are left before activation is required. When that number approaches 0, click Start | All Programs | Accessories. Right-click Command Prompt and choose Run As Administrator. Enter your administrator password, if asked.

Type the following command and press Enter:

slmgr -rearm

Be sure to include the space after slmgr and the hyphen in front of rearm.

Restart Windows 7.

In Summary

The last days of Windows 7 RC are approaching, and I’m probably going to end up buying Home Premium. Professional would be my first choice, but it’s probably not really necessary. However, after using Ultimate for so long, I want to know that I’ll be able to get by with a reduced feature set, so I definitely want to test-drive Professional and then Home Premium before I buy.

The problems

Clicking the drive letter in Windows Explorer returns the following error message:

Please insert a disk into drive X:.

Attempting to format the drive returns the warning:

There is no disk in drive X.
Insert a disk, and then try again.

This is what the drives looked like once I’d thoroughly broken them.

SanDisk U3 Cruzer Micro USB Device Properties

The drive properties show:
Type: Removable Disk
File system: Unknown
Used space 0 bytes
Free space 0 bytes
Capacity 0 bytes

The Volumes tab shows:
Type: Removable
Status: No Media
Partition style: Not Applicable
Capacity: 0 MB
Unallocated space: 0 MB
Reserved space: 0 MB

Opening the Disk Management component of the Computer Management console shows that the drive is connected, but there is no unallocated space to partition or format.

Other things about the disk look normal. It shows up in the Device Manager as working correctly, without any warnings, for example.

I Googled around and found that many, many people were running into this problem where the drive starts reporting 0 bytes capacity and can not be formatted. Of the dozens of pages that I read, no one found a fix for the problem. The most common solution offered was to return the drive to the manufacturer for replacement. Well, I wasn’t going to publicize my mistake and return the drives, I was going to repair them.

Software that didn’t help

Feel free to skip this part if you’re not interested in reading about the many dead-ends I explored.

I knew of one nifty program that had helped me out before, so I tried running the “HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool v2.1.8″, which you are going to have to locate on your own, because HP no longer offers this for download. But attempting to format the drive with this utility returned the following error message:

There is no media in the specified device.

Someone suggested using this thing called “Apacer Repair v2.9.1.1″ to reformat the drive, so I tried that, but the software only reported “USB Flash Disk not found!” when I ran it.

Someone else recommended FreeCommander, but that failed to open the drive, too.

I tried the free trial of the utility from http://www.flashmemorytoolkit.com/, but it reported the same information as Windows XP – that the device contained a disk with 0 bytes capacity. Maybe the full version could have done more, but I put that on the back burner.

A number of people suggested attacking it with partitioning software, which I wasn’t looking forward to doing, but was willing to try.

What I should have tried to begin with

Then I had an idea. I had a clean drive that had escaped my earlier bungling. I plugged it in, copied the contents to my desktop and tried to run the U3 LaunchPad software. Nothing happened, so I started looking more closely at the files. One of the files was called SanDiskFormatExtension.dll, which sounded promising. Now I just needed to figure out how to run the SanDisk installer to reformat the drive. I tried all of the .exe’s and .msi’s that shipped with the drive, but nothing wanted to run from the folder on my desktop.

Just as I was running out of options, I opened the autorun.inf file and found a very interesting entry:

[Update]
URL=http://u3.sandisk.com/download/lp_installer.asp?custom=1.6.1.2&brand=PelicanBFG

The fix

So, with nothing to lose, I pasted http://u3.sandisk.com/download/lp_installer.asp?custom=1.6.1.2&brand=PelicanBFG into Internet Explorer, thinking that it would at least get me some new files that might allow me to reformat the drive. I followed a few prompts and lo, the U3 Launchpad Installer software launched and restored the drive to its factory settings of 2 GB capacity formatted as FAT. It even replaced the original U3 files, making it truly good-as-new.

I’m astonished that this information isn’t more widely available, particularly on the SanDisk support site and forums, as this 0 capacity problem seems to affect a good number of drives and there are many threads where this issue remains unresolved.

Note that the page at http://u3.sandisk.com/download/lp_installer.asp?custom=1.6.1.2&brand=PelicanBFG requires you to install an ActiveX component, so you must use Internet Explorer.

Of course, if you’re not using a SanDisk drive, there’s no guarantee that this software will fix your drive, but it’s worth a try, right? Or maybe your device’s manufacturer has something similar.

If you’re trying to restore the drive’s contents or recover files, this method formats (erases) the drive and is not for you.

As it turns out, this problem affects laptops generally, and is due to something called a “ground loop”. Basically, the flickering is a visual symptom of signal noise traveling along the ground circuit. The solution? Well, reducing the signal noise in the ground circuit isn’t easy, but removing the monitor from the circuit is – the fastest fix is to unplug your monitor and tear off the ground prong from the plug with a pair of pliers. I did this, and it almost completely stopped the flickering – to the point that it isn’t discernible under normal conditions.

The post I have to thank for this advice: Ground loop causing flickering in external LCD.

• Slow down your Internet performance
• View files on your computers and spread dangerous software
• Monitor the Web sites you visit, read your e-mail and instant messages as they travel across the network, and copy your usernames and passwords
• Send spam or perform illegal activities with your Internet connection

IT security needs to use a layered approach. While no single layer of security is enough to withstand every attack, each additional layer serves to further harden your system and discourage would-be attackers and free-loaders. Here are six settings on your router which, if properly configured, will better protect your network, your computers, and your data.

1. Change the default password for the administrator account on your wireless router or access point. This is absolutely essential and should have been the very first thing you did after you unboxed it. Don’t use a word in the dictionary or anything easily guessed.
2. Limit access to your wireless LAN by using MAC address filtering. A MAC address (also called the physical address) is an identifier unique to each network adapter. MAC address filtering involves looking up the MAC address of each device that will connect to the WLAN and adding them to a list in the router’s control panel. MAC addresses can be spoofed, so filtering shouldn’t be the only security method used.
3. Change your SSID (network name). A router’s default SSID (Service Set Identifier) can be used to identify your hardware, which could help a hacker determine the default administrator password (see step 1). A default SSID also suggests that the network was poorly configured, making it appear to be an easier target. Change it to something you and your family would recognize (your pet’s name, for example), but that’s not publicly identifiable (don’t use your name, your address, etc.).
4. Disable SSID broadcasting (if you’re using an AirPort, close your network). This will prevent casual browsers from finding your network, but it also means you will have to manually enter the name of your network on each device. Unless you’re a Starbucks, you shouldn’t advertise that you have complimentary Wi-Fi. Not broadcasting your SSID does nothing to secure your network, it just makes it less obvious to your neighbors.
5. Use the strongest encryption form supported by your router and all of your other devices. The best choice is WPA2 with the “TKIP+AES” algorithm, which is the newest type of wireless encryption and provides the highest level of encryption available. WPA2 has been available on most devices manufactured in the past few years. WPA-PSK, also called WPA-Personal, encryption is the next best, and 128-bit WEP is the weakest level of encryption and not very good, but better than nothing. Use a strong password, ideally a string of at 20+ random alpha-numeric characters. You can find such random strings at https://www.grc.com/passwords.htm . If you must use WEP, change your key often.
6. Disable remote administration. The ability to remotely administer your WLAN router via the Internet should be turned off unless you absolutely need this. It is usually turned off by default, but it’s a good idea to check. The only downside to this is that you will have to physically connect a computer to the router in order to configure it, which isn’t necessarily a downside at all.

With the router and WLAN now well-configured, hacking your home network will be much more difficult. Below are a few more suggestions to further increase your protection.

If you can afford a second NAT router, you can dramatically improve your LAN’s security. Basically, you create a second LAN by connecting the wireless router to the modem, connecting a second, wired router to the wireless router and then put one or more of your PCs behind the second, wired router. This means that anyone who accesses your WLAN still can’t get to the PCs behind the second, wired router.

Read more about using a second NAT router to create an even more secure LAN at GRC.com.

Test your connection for vulnerabilities with third-party software. Use the ShieldsUP! port probe from GRC.com to check whether your router is detectable by port scanners.
https://www.grc.com/x/ne.dll?bh0bkyd2

McAfee Wi-FiScan surveys your current Wi-Fi connection, your wireless equipment, and local environment to assess security risks introduced by your wireless network. Wi-FiScan uses an ActiveX control to gather information. If security or performance issues are found, McAfee will suggest ways to reduce your risk.
http://us.mcafee.com/root/wsc/default.asp

Netstumbler, by Marius Milner, will determine your network’s vulnerabilities and unauthorized access points, and also reveal the sources of network interference and weak signal strength.
http://www.netstumbler.com/downloads/

Protect your machine from attacks from within your LAN. Use a software firewall on every device and make sure that port 113 is stealthed. If you are using Windows, run Windows Updates every month or keep Automatic Updates on. Install some anti-virus software (Microsoft Security Essentials seems quite nice) and keep that up to date, too. Turn off services like File Sharing unless you need them and understand the consequences.

For the borderline-paranoids, you can turn off DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) entirely and configure each device to connect using a specific IP, or at least assign all of your devices static IP addresses well away from the first address dynamically assigned by your router. For example, if your router starts assigning IP addresses at 192.168.0.100, give your devices static addresses above 192.168.0.150. This will make it more of a nuisance for someone who does access your network to find the machines connected to it, as they won’t exist near the address assigned dynamically to the intruder. You can change the default IP address of the router itself, too, but that will be immediately obvious to anyone who gets in.

Verify that your computer’s Wake on Wireless LAN (WoWLAN) function is disabled (check your BIOS).

A Wi-Fi network is only vulnerable when it is on, so turn off your router when you aren’t using it. Turn off your computers, or at least hibernate/sleep them, when not in use. (Don’t forget to turn off the monitors, too.) Better yet, just kill the power at the surge protector, as all of these components still draw power when turned off. You’ll be surprised at how much energy you can save.

The farther the Wi-Fi signal reaches, the easier it is for others to detect and exploit it. If possible, place the router where it will have the most difficulty broadcasting the signal outside your home, such as in the basement, in a closet, or toward the center of your home. While not a feature of all wireless routers and access points, some allow you to reduce the transmitter power. If possible, adjust it so that you still get a decent signal inside, but it doesn’t leak too far outside your home.

Don’t connect to unprotected wireless networks yourself, as it’s possible for someone on that network to monitor your traffic. If you must connect to an unprotected network, enter passwords only on sites that use encryption (those that display the padlock icon in the lower-right corner of your browser and with a URL in the address bar that begins with https). Never select the ‘connect to available wifi networks automatically’ setup option under your Network Connections window.

Ensure that your router’s firewall is enabled, along with related built-in security features that block anonymous requests or pings from the WAN side.

The DMZ feature of your router allows you to put a machine ‘outside’ of the protection of the NAT router. Only use this if you understand the consequences.

For a good Ars Technica article that includes a chart of common devices (Wii, PS3, Xbox 360, etc.) and their support for the various levels of encryption, read The ABCs of securing your wireless network.

While we’re on the subject, you might want to consider choosing the right channel to obtain the best wireless signal.

After some Googling around, I came across this thing called MOA, Multi-Operating system Administration. Basically, it creates a LiveCD that runs the free VMware Converter on top of a Windows Server 2003 kernel. It’s very, very nice and developed by an obvious super-genius. Just how cool is it? How about the ability to boot a physical box and start the originally installed system as a virtual machine?

Here are the steps I took to build my free cold clone boot CD.

Creating the cold clone boot CD

This builds a LiveCD using Windows Server 2003 that can then run VMware vCenter Converter Standalone 3.0.3 (previously known as VMware Converter Starter Edition) in order to cold clone a hard drive.

Caveats

The version of Windows running in the LiveCD should be the same as, or later than, the version of the Windows machine you want to convert to a VM.

VMware recommends, when cold cloning using their boot CD, that the source physical machine have 364MB of memory, with a minimum of 264MB. MOA recommends, for the Bandit version ISO, that the physical machine have at least 512MB and preferably 1GB or more.

Required files

Download moa241-setup.exe (2.7MB) from

http://sanbarrow.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1544

You will need to sign up at the forums to gain access to the download.

Download X13-05665.img (596MB) (Windows Server 2003) from

http://download.microsoft.com/download/E/5/C/E5C2CA69-28C9-492A-8F57-BDA0010616E5/X13-05665.img

Download VMware-converter-3.0.3-89816.exe (30.1MB) from

http://download3.vmware.com/software/converter/VMware-converter-3.0.3-89816.exe

Put all three files in the same folder (with no spaces in the folder name) on a NTFS-formatted disk. MOA will refer to this as the ‘building directory’.

Assemble the ISO

Run moa241-setup.exe.
In the application menu, click moa -> create MOA core.

If you have put the X13-05665.img file into the root of the building directory, MOA will extract the files automatically. If the X13-05665.img file is in a different location or if you are using a different OS to build the LiveCD, MOA setup asks for the location of your Windows-sources. This must be a 32-bit OS, like XP or Server 2003. If you have the files on a CD or mounted using Daemon-tools, just select the drive letter; if you have them extracted somewhere on your hard disk, point to the directory one level higher than the I386 directory.

The MOA setup app asks a few questions about the environment you want to build. Answer these very quickly, as they appear to have a default answer which will be selected automatically after a very short timeout (maybe like 10 seconds).

The MOA setup runs a nifty little DOS app that downloads another 20.34MB of core files. It will ask if you want to download drivers, which is another 17MB download. After another few questions, it runs PE Builder v3.1.10a.

The MOA setup then asks if you want to install VMware Converter 3.0.3 (the default is no, so quickly click yes). After which, it asks you if you want the converter to autostart (default is no, which is fine).

A standard image ISO is created automatically. You can also create a Bandit image ISO, which seems to be what most people use. In my case, the standard image is 374,622KB, while the Bandit image is 296,810KB. The Bandit version should also be faster than the standard version.

The ISO files are saved to \iso-out\. Burn to CD or DVD using whatever method you prefer.

Booting from the LiveCD

When booting from the Bandit image, you will get the following message, “can’t find vmware – starting plan B”, which makes it seem like something is wrong.

An Open File dialogue box then opens in the ramdisk \vm\ folder and displays “can’t find vmware files in default location – please select a different path”. It’s looking for a Workstation or VMware Player installation here, not the Converter. Just click Cancel.

Another Open File dialogue box will open, stating “still can’t find VMware – you may want to mount a wim”. Click Cancel again.

After a few more seconds, MOA will be finished booting up and the GUI will minimize. Click the taskbar button to open it back up, then right-click the button with the image of the desktop PC with the VMware logo on the screen and select “start converter” from the menu. A Browse for Folder dialogue box will open. Browse to X:/moahome/vm/converter/ and click OK. VMware Converter will launch.

If things are not going as expected, the developer has made a video tutorial showing a boot into MOA followed by a cold cloning operation, located at http://sanbarrow.com/moa23/coldclone-howto/coldclone-howto.html

I saved my new virtual machine to a second physical disk, then put that drive into another machine with VMware Server 1.0.9 already installed and copied over the three vm files.

I started VMware Server and clicked Open Existing Virtual Machine, but when I tried to add the new vm to the inventory, VMware Server Console popped up an error: Unable to add virtual machine “D:\Virtual Machines\coldclonetest\coldclonetest.vmx” to the inventory. Configuration file was created by a VMware product with more features than this version.

Some quick Googling led to the fix:

Open the virtual machine’s two ~1 KB configuration files in a text editor.

In the *.vmx file, change

virtualHW.version = "6"
to
virtualHW.version = "4"

In the *.vmdk file, change

ddb.virtualHWVersion = "6"
to
ddb.virtualHWVersion = "4"

After I made those changes, the virtual machine powered on and booted into XP, running all the expected install scripts and generating unique Windows and ZENworks identifiers. I’ve also successfully cold cloned a Windows 2000 machine using the same boot CD.

MOA on a bootable USB drive

If you would prefer to use a bootable USB drive instead of a LiveCD, here are some tips for getting MOA onto a USB drive: http://sanbarrow.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1250

My Xbox, which had been connected for months with an Open NAT while using a old Siemens Speedstream 4100 modem, never had any problems connecting.

I double checked all the connections, powercycled the Xbox, then ran the network tests from the System blade. It would pass all of the tests up until the Xbox Live test, at which point it would fail spectacularly and restart the tests – but this time displaying a “Disconnected” message at the Network Adapter test.

I bypassed the router and plugged the Xbox straight into the DSL modem and was able to connect, but with a Strict NAT. (I should have realized the significance of this right away, but I didn’t.)

So I reconnected the router and kept experimenting. After a while, I noticed that my computers connected to the router also lost their connections when I tried to sign in to Xbox Live.

As it turns out, the suspicious-looking disconnection message was accurate – something the Xbox was doing was causing the router to reboot.

I Googled around and found a few good posts about this problem.

First, I disabled UPnP on the D-Link router thanks to the advice in this Ars Technica forum post. Then I configured it to assign the Xbox a static IP address and then put that IP address in the DMZ. Now the Xbox was able to connect to Xbox Live, but the NAT status was Strict.

I wasn’t going to settle for that, though. I wanted to get an Open NAT.

So I took it out of the DMZ and port forwarded UDP 88 and both UDP & TCP 3074 ports to the static IP address, but the NAT status was still Strict.

Giving the Xbox a static IP address and forwarding the ports had fixed similar connection issues and permitted an Open NAT for almost everyone else, why wasn’t it working for this setup?

More Googling finally turned up the explanation. The Motorola Netopia 2210 contains a NAT router, so no matter what I did with the D-Link’s settings, I was going to keep getting the Strict NAT from the modem as long as it was handling the PPPoE. (This is what I should have realized earlier, when I was connecting the Xbox directly to the modem.)

“The Motorola/Netopia 2210 is also a router with full DHCP functions and may not function correctly when connected directly to another router. Not changing the modem to Bridged Ethernet may result in double NAT’ing, increased latency, possible IP conflicts, or possibly a network that doesn’t work at all.”
- http://www.dslreports.com/faq/15855

The solution was to configure the modem to use “Bridged Ethernet” mode and set up PPPoE on the router.

As long as you’re setting up PPPoE on the router, you may want to select “Keep Alive” or “Always On”, if those options are available, or set the Maximum Idle Time to “0″. You should also confirm that the MTU value is “1492″ and that value is used on all the devices on the network.

Also note that the Motorola Netopia 2210 has an “Internet” light that lights up green whenever there is an active PPPoE session initiated by it. The light will stay off when the PPPoE session is initiated by a router or other device.

I lifted the levers of the heat sink brackets, breaking the first one and in the process charging past another clear warning sign. After carefully easing the brackets off the mount with a flat-head screwdriver, I gently pulled on the heat sink, rocking it slightly but not twisting it. With a quiet sound similar to velcro being pulled apart, the heat sink was free and I was looking into the empty socket on the motherboard—the cpu was stuck to the heat sink.

With only minimal exertion, I had managed to pull out the cpu along with the heat sink; the two still very firmly attached to one another with some sort of adhesive that Gateway used instead of grease. Figuring wrongly that because it came out so easily, it should go back in without much trouble, I lined up the pins and tried to press the chip back into the socket. The still-attached heat sink, of course, preventing me from lifting the socket’s locking bar. Luckily, I quickly realized that this plan held the very real potential for disaster, and that if the chip wasn’t already broken, bent pins would certainly ruin any chance of salvaging it. So, I backed off and consulted Google, where I found some excellent advice.

Placing the chip/heat sink combo on the table with the pins up, I wet a partially denuded Q-Tip with Goo Gone and worked it along the seam, being careful to avoid getting any Goo Gone on the PCB or in the gap between the PCB and the chip’s metal cap. Then I paced around anxiously for ten minutes and applied a few more drops. The instructions suggested placing a credit card against the seam of the chip and the heat sink and tapping the card with a hammer, so I tried that, but was afraid that a tap powerful enough to free the cpu might also break it. So I instead placed the point of a pocket knife in the seam, angled toward the heat sink, and gave that a few timid taps. And lo, the chip dropped right off. With more Goo Gone and some cotton balls, I removed the remaining adhesive from the chip, wiped it down with rubbing alcohol for good measure, greased it and replaced it in the socket.

Then I tried to set the new Ultra heat sink into place, but it was ever so slightly too wide for the mount. This put me over the edge. After about 2 hours of panic and visions of coughing up for a new motherboard and chip, I was stuck using the old heat sink. So I cleaned it off, screwed the new fan into it, and clipped it into place. I hit the power button, and amazingly, it POSTed and booted normally, after a warning that Windows wasn’t shut down properly.

Strike another one for doing a project the easy way instead of the right way.